Gabrielle Coco Chanel
Cubism and women liberalism_
The emancipation of women and the general liberalism were central to the development of fashion design. The new casual look in fashion had sharp contrast to the corset fashions popular in the previous decades. With freedom of movement a priority, designers such as Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet, Erte , Gabrielle Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli created the first real style for the modern woman.
The increasing liberation of women during the same period, which surely had repercussions.
Still, the clothes speak for themselves, at least in the first gallery. Here their dramatic changes in bulk and structure signal the profound rise in the physical and mental freedom of women that occurred between the late 1890's and the end of World War I.
Thus, in two decades, the female silhouette comes into view. In one of the show's best wall texts, Mr. Martin describes late 19th-century dresses as inherently sculptural, stand-alone garments that looked very much the same on the body or hanging in the closet. In contrast, modern clothes tended to be flat and limp, their structural logic incomprehensible until someone put them on. 
DESIGN REVIEW; A Fashion Statement Draped in Cubism By ROBERTA SMITH Published: December 11, 1998
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